Epoxy 101: Getting Started

Materials:

• Epoxy & hardener (small set (32 oz), large set (2 gallons))

• Epoxy molds (small, large)

• Reusable mixing supples (small)

• One time use mixing supplies (large)

• Mold release spray (use to prevent mold tearing!!!)

• Disposable gloves

• Tweezers (for placement)

• Mini-blow torch (for bubble removal)
  

Additional Supplies (optional):

• Silicon counter mat

• Pressed flowers

• Thick casting mold

  • Easier to release, not as transparent

• Resin heating mat

  • Speed up curing time. For small and medium sized projects

• Handheld electronic resin mixer

  • Mixed reviews. Not for large projects

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Does your epoxy look foggy after you're done stirring it? Does your epoxy look like jelly when you pour it?? --------------- It's too cold!!! --------------- I know, I know... "it's not 'cold'"... but.. it probably is... Place your unmixed containers of epoxy in a warmer location and try again tomorrow!

Getting started:

• Work area must be level!

  • "It's level (enough)"... I said when I first got started

  • Nope. "Level enough" isn't level... and it'll show when your (ahem) self-leveling epoxy dries with a slope...

• Check your temperature!!!

  • If the epoxy (or room) is cold it will be cloudy when it mixes

  • Store in warmer location, or put the containers in a warm (not hot) bath for a while

• SPRAY YOUR MOLD!!!

  • Better safe than sorry.

  • SPRAY IT! (wipe off excess)

  • If it sticks it can ruin your mold.

• Epoxy / harder ratio (1:1)

• MIX IT WELL

  • Mix it longer than you think

  • Don't mix it too FAST or you'll cause bubbles

  • Slow & stead wins the (epoxy) race!
    

Inspirations to get you started:

Things to do / Things that HELP:

• General:

  • Use mold release spray!

    • I've ruined more than one mold by not spraying / forgetting to spray first!

  • Pour a thin coat of epoxy on the bottom of the mold & let it cure (dry)

  • REMEMBER: whatever you add will FLOAT!!!

  • Thin / moderate epoxy layers are your friend

  • Use an epoxy heating mat to speed up the curing time AND for a more durable / less flexible finished product (see video below)

  • Use a mini-blow torch to get rid of bubbles

    • DIP your items in epoxy before you place them in your mold

    • If you DON'T dip them... don't use your blow torch!

    • DO NOT use the blow torch after 30 mins (the epoxy will catch on fire)

Things NOT to do (SERIOUSLY - learn from my mistakes!)

• General:

  • DON'T try to push things down into the epoxy and then expect them to stay there...

  • Items in wet epoxy WILL FLOAT. Trying to push it down until it dries DOESN'T WORK and will only cause you heartache!!! Drip some of the epoxy out, let the item dry in a more shallow amount of epoxy, and THEN once that layer is dry you can add another flood layer. TRUST ME - this one's important!

  • DON'T de-mold until you're done with your entire project

• Organic matter (wood, coal, etc):

  • DON'T use the blow-torch on wood / charcoal (bubbles will just come back over and over). Dip these items in a light coat of epoxy & let them dry. Once dry, you can incorporate in your larger project with no bubble issues.

  • Bubbles directly on / over organic matter will resolve themselves (or can be popped as they rise to the top w/ a pin)

​Cleaning up:

• Any mixing supplies that are wood or plastic can be air dried and then thrown away

• Silicon based mixing supplies can be air dried. You can then easily peal / scrape any remaining epoxy and reuse.

• While wearing gloves is recommended, you may have gotten some epoxy on your hands (it happens). This is very difficult to get off.... I highly recommend using TheraTree Exfoliating Scrub to help get the epoxy off your skin in a timely fashion.

Now... GO CRAFT!

Good luck!!!